I move:
That the Customs Duties (Clothing and Wearing Apparel) (Provisional Variation) Order, 1932, which was made on the 26th day of April, 1932, by the Executive Council under Section 1 of the Customs Duties (Provisional Imposition) Act, 1931, (No. 38 of 1931) and a copy of which was laid on the Table of Dáil Eireann on the 28th day of April, 1932, be approved, subject to the following modifications, that is to say—
(a) there shall be inserted in the said Order after paragraph 5 thereof a new paragraph as follows—"6. The duty imposed by this Order shall not be chargeable on component parts of personal clothing and wearing apparel which are made wholly or mainly of non-textile material or materials, but this exemption shall not apply in respect of parts made wholly or mainly of leather unless the parts are intended for and suitable for use in the manufacture of hats or caps," and
(b) the Schedule to the said Order shall be amended in the following respects and shall be construed and have effect accordingly, that is to say—
(i) by the addition at the end of sub-paragraph (b) of paragraph 1 of the said Schedule of the words "not including umbrellas,"
(ii) by the addition at the end of sub-paragraph (c) of the paragraph 1 of the said Schedule of the words "not including gloves,"
(iii) by the addition in sub-paragraph (a) of paragraph 2 of the said Schedule of the words "and collars" after the word "shirts,"
(iv) by the deletion of sub-paragraph (b) of paragraph 2 of the said Schedule.
I will try to be as brief as possible because it is necessary to get a decision on the Resolution before 10.30 p.m.
The duty imposed by the Order was as follows:—60 per cent., with a preferential rate of 40 per cent., upon men's and boys' ready-made clothing and other ready-made clothing of various description as set out in the Order. No change in the existing rate of duty upon shirts, collars, straw hats, felt hats of all descriptions, hats of any other description and intended for wear by women and girls, and all component parts and all accessories of any of these goods. When I say no change, the existing rate of duty was 15 per cent. Under this Order the maximum may be 22½ per cent. with a preferential rate of 15 per cent. The present rate is 30 per cent. upon every article of men's and women's wearing apparel. The modification proposed in the resolution is designed to take out and place in a separate category all gloves. As the Revenue Commissioners themselves interpreted the original Order, gloves made of leather were subjected to the higher rate of duty and gloves made of wool to the lower rate of duty. The intention is that all gloves be subjected to the 30 per cent. rate.
The position in respect of this industry is probably well known to a number of Deputies. For a number of years past a Customs duty of 15 per cent. was applied to all wearing apparel. We have split up that duty as it were into its component parts by an increase in respect of some articles and a lessening of the duty in respect of others. We have increased it not so considerably in respect of the third class. Another change that we are proposing to make in the Order is to admit free of duty parts for caps— peaks and leather parts. We are proposing to abolish the duty now payable upon cloth for manufacture into caps, which cloth is of a kind not now supplied from within the country or likely to be supplied from within.
A considerable reduction should take place in the price of caps. I hope that announcement will be of some consolation to certain merchants who have been importing these caps at a very high rate in the past couple of weeks.
The position in respect of men's and boys' clothing is this: This industry despite the fact that it had a slender measure of protection of only 15 per cent. has developed at a remarkably rapid rate here. The imports of men's and boys' suits amounted to £835,000 the year before the tariff, and they amounted to £207,000 last year. Pre-tariff there were less than 800 workers employed, calculated on a full time basis, in the industry. The numbers employed had reached 2,561 in September of last year. The main development of the industry has been in respect of men's and boys' suits. The development is not so rapid in respect of men's and boys' overcoats, but that end of the industry is developing now. There is no reason why the £60,000 which represents our imports of overcoats should not disappear in due course, and all these coats be made by the existing factories. Generally speaking, the requirements of the country in respect of ready-made suits and men's and boys' overcoats amount to £1,300,000. Of that possibly £1,000,000 worth is supplied from within the country and £300,000 worth imported. So the industry has only a very short step further to go in order to meet our entire requirements. The intention of this duty is to secure for them the remaining portion of the market.
The development of the industry, which was very rapid the first years after the tariff, was checked in 1927 when certain firms, Messrs. Burton, Hipps and other firms operating multiple shops commenced operations here. The operations of these firms did check the development of the industry. One remarkable fact about the industry is that the competition between native manufacturers is very severe, with the result that prices have been kept at a very remarkably low level. Despite the fact that a duty of 15 per cent. was imposed, the prices prevailing for men's and boys' ready-made suits have not been higher than those prevailing in England and Northern Ireland. The costs of production here are slightly higher and the representatives of firms who operate factories in the Free State and the Six Counties, with whom I discussed this matter, assured me that the profit here, in consequence of this keen competition, is very much lower than in respect of the Six-County factories.
In the hat and cap industry there were three firms employing about 90 workers when the tariff was first imposed and there are now five employing 200 workers. It is anticipated that there will be further development there in consequence of the facility which we are proposing to give by exempting from duty the raw materials which were heretofore taxed. In the making of ties, there were five firms employing about 100 workers pre-tariff, and at the moment there are nine firms employing 222 workers. In the umbrella industry there were three firms employing 45 workers pre-tariff, while at the moment there are four firms employing about 75 workers.
In the case of women's clothing, the development has not been to anything like the same extent. A beginning, in fact, is only being made in the manufacture of women's heavy outer garments. In respect of women's light outer garments and under-garments, there has been a substantial industry in existence for a number of years. There are at present almost 30 firms in the Saorstát engaged in that business. All these firms have made very definite progress since the tariff was imposed in 1925, the number of workers engaged having increased from 100 to 800 over that period.
In respect of hosiery, the position is this: that although a very substantial advance has been made in consequence of the protection afforded, there is still a considerable distance for this industry to travel before it will have reached the point at which it will be supplying our requirements. The most rapid advance has been in respect of wool hosiery. The imports of wool stockings have decreased since 1924 from £344,000 to £171,000 in 1930, and wool underwear from £151,000 to £106,000. In the case of fancy hosiery, there has been an increase of imports in respect of cotton, artificial silk and other materials. The industry has not made much headway up to the present. There is no reason why the firms existing here, if they secured the market, cannot meet all our requirements in respect of these articles and produce them at a highly competitive price. For a slight period, during which the industries will be installing the necessary machinery and perfecting their organisation to meet the situation consequent on these new tariffs, there will be some slight dislocation.
There is no reason to anticipate that dislocation now, because in respect of this class of goods there has been a considerable importation during the past few weeks, and there is probably in the country a very considerable supply which will avail to meet all our requirements during the period when the factories are extending their plant and equipment, and which will enable them to get to the position of availing in full of the new markets now made available to them. I do not wish to delay the Dáil any longer, as some Deputies may wish to speak on this matter. I am anxious to supply any information Deputies may require. In case Deputies feel that the time at their disposal is unduly limited, I will point out again that they will have another opportunity to speak on the matter when the Bill confirming this Resolution is submitted to the Dáil ten days hence.